Measuring first

Corset measurements
Your Wardrobe Unlock'd

Drafting a corset pattern, Part 1

So, of course, now that I've decided to make a corset, I actually need to make a pattern.  Now, I could buy one (there are several sorts that you can find out there if you Google) but that would be TOO EASY. I must make this as difficult as possible for myself (because I always do, please help me) so I'm going to draft one for myself.

Your Wardrobe Unlock'd has thorough instructions on how to make your own corset block pattern. These seem to be a modified version of creating a standard bodice block pattern.  If you already have a full block pattern, there are instructions in this odd little YouTube video by Modepourlol on how to modify it.

So, here we go.

Measuring

Get a piece of string and tie it firmly around your natural waist.  This isn't necessarily the skinniest part of your waist (it isn't for me) but the spot where you bend sideways. Lean from side to side a few times and make sure it doesn't need adjusting.

Also, make sure you're wearing a supportive bra that's holding your breast in the location that you're after.

Right, onto measurements (and DON'T FUDGE THEM). These are in inches (rather than the PROPER centimetres, because most of the instructions I've found are from the US).

1. Over bust measurement = 45"
1a. Upper bust (not shown, but above line 1, touching the bottom of the arm-holes and where the top of an over bust corset might sit) = 43"
1b. Back bust (take the under bust measurement and add 4" and divide by 2. You can confirm this by measuring around your back from one side bra seam to the other) = 20"
1c. Front bust (Over bust measurement minus the back bust) = 25"
2. Over bust to natural waist (measure this at the side of your body) = 8"
2a. Upper bust to natural waist = 10"
3. Under bust measurement (probably where the bottom of your bra sits) = 37"
4.  From the over bust measurement line at your nipple and down over the curve of your body to your waist (this takes into account the fullness of your breasts) = 9.5"
5. Under bust to waist = 6"
6. Waist measurement = 39"
6a. Reduced waist measurement after the corset is tightened (probably about 4" or 12cm less, more if you're pretty "squishy") = 32"
7. Upper hip measurement (this is at the top of the hip bones, not the fullest part of your hip) = 47"
7a. Lower hip measurement (this is the fullest part of your hip, useful for a long-line corset) = 49"
7b. Upper back hip measurement (from one seam of your underwear to the other across your butt. If your chest is bigger than your hips you would probably want to use your half over bust measurement instead for this number) = 24"
7c. Upper front hip measurement (the rest) = 23"
8. Waist to upper hip measurement = 7"
8a. Wait to lower hip measurement = 8"
9. Waist to hip flexor (measure this by sitting down and use a ruler. Adjust this length until you can sit comfortably without the ruler jabbing your thigh. If this measurement is too long, the corset bones will stick into you) = 7"

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Edit: OK, so I measured wrong. So much so I had to start again and draw a second pattern from scratch. The numbers above reflect the corrected numbers - which pretty much boiled down to my waist being 2" higher than I thought.  Try wrapping a wide, tight, elasticated band around your waist a few times and bending over and around and seeing where it creases. It might be higher than you think, especially if you have quite a bit of "fluff".

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