Drafting a corset pattern, Part 3
Using the measurements you took in Part1, follow the instructions at Your Wardrobe Unlock'd TO THE LETTER* (pdf). I'd suggest you print it out and write the completed measurements on your printout for ease of reference.
A few tips (mostly to myself):
- Don't get fancy - don't try to modify the pattern. Wait till you're better at it
- Allocate at least 2 hrs to do all this with NO DISTRACTIONS. Seriously, you'll need to concentrate. I know I did
- Have the right tools. A long ruler and a right angle of some kind are essential. But if you've got better equipment, use it
- Before cutting up your final pattern - PUT IN YOUR SEWING NOTATIONS
- Draw up your own back modesty panel, the same height as the finished back and 6" wide
- Draw up your own front modesty panel if you're using a split busk, the same height as the finished front and 3" wide
- If you have a pattern overlap (likely if you have large hips) you may need to draw fresh pieces without the overlap (see the image below)
- Make sure you store all the labeled pieces in a labeled bag. I find ziplock bags very good for this

Sewing notations are marks on the pattern that show how it goes together. You need to have on each pattern piece AT LEAST:
- The name of the pattern on each piece - i.e. Corset Block v1.0
- The name of each piece - i.e. centre front, front side, side, side back, centre back
- A drawn-in waist line and under bust line on each piece
- Instructions for cutting out - i.e. Corset Block v1.0, centre front, cut on fold, 1 fabric, 1 lining, 1 interfacing, allow 1 cm seams
- Notch marks to match the pattern pieces together - once the pieces are cut out they will look very similar. Where the notch marks are can be used to identify the pieces and how they fit together with the next piece. Measure all notches from the waistline to ensure they match when the pattern is cut out
* Uh-huh. See what I did there? No, but really. TO THE LETTER.
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