Mocking up fourth

Sewing a corset, Part 1

Now you have your draft pattern, but it's not much good as a corset made from paper. So now we need to make a mockup (or muslin) to test the pattern.

Materials
You can, of course, use any straight weave, non-stretch, material you have on hand to test your pattern, however a light colour is of an advantage, as you can draw markings on it easily and using pen means it won't rub off.  If you need to buy something, consider gingham (checked material) as it will show crooked seams easily, and the squares can be used to give a measurement estimate (I'm using 1/2" squared gingham).  You'll probably need about 0.5m of a 1.2m roll - but get 1m as you might need to make multiple mockups.

You'll also need 12 or so long cable ties (to act as temporary boning), several different colours of contrasting sewing thread, 6-8m of ribbon for lacing (though, you could re-purpose the ties you plan to use in the final corset), dressmaker's pins and sharp scissors.

Method
Estimate the total length needed to lay out all of the pieces with at least a 1.5cm seam allowance on all sides*. Fold the fabric so the pattern pieces will lay on a double layer.  Make sure the vertical fold is in line with the weave (ignore an misalignment along the bottom, it's very rare that woven fabric is actually square).

Place the centre front piece on the fold (even if you'll be using a split busk later) and pin to the fabric with the straight edge on the fold. Using your pen, draw a 1.5cm seam allowance around the other sides, and mark on the sewing notations, the waist line and the under bust line.  Repeat with the next piece and continue until they're all done. It's OK to spin a piece around to get a tighter fit.

Cut them out neatly and lay them in order.  Then, starting at the centre front, pin the seam allowances together for all the pieces.  Sew them together, 1.5cm from the edge of the fabric using a contrasting thread in a large stitch (to make it easy to rip the stitches later).  Always start at the top and work down the fabric.

Sew two channels by folding over the straight edges at the back and slip in the cable ties. Hold the mockup to your body, making sure the waist and under bust lines are in position, and see how it's going.

Mockup V1.0
Well, it turns out the drafted pattern is ridiculously wrong. But that's what a mock-up is for checking. I need 3 less inches in the bust, 3 less inches at the waist, and 8 more inches at the hips.  The height at the front is good and the bust shape is fine.

The front sections are fine as well; it looks like I have a very small back chest and a very large back upper hip measurement. Perhaps I shouldn't be surprised? ^_^

This means I'll make all my modifications in the seams at the back of the pattern and leave the front alone.

Mockup V1.1
I reduced the volume at the back above the waist and increased it below the waist by drafting up new pattern pieces.  Then I unpicked the offending bits and sewed on the new ones.

It was then I realised that I'd obviously made a fundamental error when measuring myself. My waistline was a good 2" higher than I thought. The mockup went to Mr Icy for rags in his shed and I gave a very large sigh of frustration.

Then I pulled out my tape measure and started again.

Tips
You can anchor your pattern with adhesive spray or heavy weights as an alternative to pins which will pucker the fabric.
Marking out alternatives are pencil, chalk pencils, chalk paper with a double marking wheel (on the reverse of the fabric). Be very, very precise with your marking out.
Rotary cutters are an alternative to scissors; large for big straight lines and small for tight corners. Cut layers one at a time for precision. Always cut (and sew) in the same direction.

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* Make that at least 3cm, otherwise you'll be making more mockups, like me. Avoid this.