Mocking up sixth

Sewing a corset, Part 2

Onwards!

Mockup V2.0 

So I reduced the bust by 1/8 inch over 4 seams for a total reduction of 1" and added 1" to the top and 3" to the bottom of the pattern. I didn't bother to draw up a new one - I'll do that once I'm happy.

For this mockup I'm using 2 layers of cream calico - of which I have metres and metres just hanging around in the cupboard (I didn't have enough gingham to use it as a top layer).

I've folded the material and pinned through 4 layers and cut out all at once.  This should be fine for the mockup, but probably not a good idea for the final fabric.

I've simply pinned the seams together and sewed through all 4 layers quickly.  One thing I've noticed as I've done this is the material bunching a little as I've gone down the seam. I think I'll definitely have to baste the layers together before sewing (though I'm still deciding on a final method for the full construction).

The first step was to sew in two boning channels down the back of the corset and filled them with nylon cable-ties (thank you lazy state election officials who left cut ones all over the polling place). You can sew over them, so even thought hey were not as long as the channel I could still anchor them in place.  Then I used my seam ripper to put in rough holes, laced it up and put it on.

And it's STILL too big! I must be seriously squishable*.

The back to the waist joins up, though over the hips it seems OK, with a 2"-3" gap. The bust is still too big as well. However, the seams don't have boning in them this time, so I've pinned what seems to be an appropriate reduction and we'll try again.  I'll also use a longer ribbon; I didn't use a long enough piece and I only had every second hole laced, so it gaped quite a bit and made it hard to fit.

Mockup V2.1

I took in around the bust and added boning (cable-ties) down the side and along the bust; added longer lacing and tried it on again.  It seemed OK, but I realised I couldn't actually tell how the bust was fitting until I added more boning.  So I single boned each panel, with and additional diagonal bone beside the bust, and another bone down beside the lacing for more back stability for a total of 16 bones with 2 half bones.

This time when I tried it on I was pleased, very pleased. It's really coming together! ^_^  There was a 1" gap down the back to the waist (so up from 0") and the hips were still fine. The bust wasn't positioned high enough and it's a little flattened at the sides (as you can see), so I've marked some adjustments there which may help.  It cuts a little high under the arm at the front and not high enough at the back.  There was also a little buckling over the hips where the line of the seam wasn't actually following my shape, so I'll make a few small changes there.

So, the plan is to make those adjustments, and possibly add a few more temporary bones to add to the stability. If you're wondering, the small black horizontal sewing lines are joining the too-short cable ties together.

Mockup V2.1.1

Perfect. Is that too much to say? All the problems I've had before have been sorted. The back is pretty much parallel and 3-4" apart. My bust is sitting juuuust right and the sections that weren't smooth before have been sorted.

This corset probably isn't technically an over-bust any more but it's not quite a demi-corset (cutting across the breast). The best description might be a balconette style.

Next Steps

So, I now need to cut this one up. Yes, this lovely thing I've spend so much effort on must now be sacrificed to make a new pattern.

I need to add a little height to the arm-syce (arm-hole) and I'm thinking of bringing the front "corners" up a little more into a more pronounced point.  The back also needs to be brought up to match.

I'm also planning to make a pattern that I can swap pieces in and out of to create different style front panels.  Am I making more work for myself? Why, yes I am**.

Thoughts

It may be a valid idea to sew the boning channels in the fabric before stitching the panels - it could be a way to "flatline" the panels together to make it easier to stitch later. Not sure of the negative implications though, I'll have to think about it.

How flexible are steel bones compared to cable ties? If I got better cable ties would that be an option?  They'd have to be a LOT stiffer down the back next to the lacing.  Perhaps a mix of steel and nylon would be OK? It would keep the weight down.

What's the proportion of spiral bones (flexible in 3D) to flat bones (2D) I should use?  Conventional wisdom would indicate that the front should be flat boning and the two bones on either side of the grommets.  Would that be better? More flat bones?

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* A further sanity check of measuring the completed waistline showed that no, I was just careless with cutting to the pattern and I'd managed to add an extra 2" over the whole thing. I may be going to Lincraft for extra tools to help with this. 
** Because I'm an idiot. Did I mention that already?

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