Make: Garrison Cap 2

Making a Garrison Cap, Part 2

Don't miss Part 1 for the (tiny) list of materials.

Method

6. Cutting the pattern

These instructions will build on those provided by Urban Don. Make sure you read both thoroughly. The order below is a little different to the original instructions and there are some extra (optional) steps.

1. Print. Print out both parts of the pattern so that each fills an A4/Letter sized sheet. Make sure the thoughtfully provided reference square is 5x5cm, which will show if your printout is in the right scale.
    
2. Measure. Use a tape measure to find the circumference of you head, just above your eyebrows. This hat sits fairly high on the head, so take that into consideration.
    
3. Resize. The pattern is sized for a 57cm head, so you may need to resize your pattern.  Divide your head circumference by 4. You will need to increase the size of the crown pattern piece to match your number. Don't forget to add a 1cm seam allowance as well (or more). You will also need to increase the crown flap and top as well.
    
4. Draft. Draft up your modified pattern onto card (if you plan to make a few) or paper. You could even use Freezer paper if you're feeling fancy.  I've added the additional modification of cutting a slight curve into the bottom of the crown and crown flap, and then matching that curve along the top of the crown flap. This should mean that the cap will come to a subtle point at the front and back.
    



8. Sew top to sides

5. Pin. Pin your pattern to your fabric. Where the pattern says "on the fold" it means fold the fabric and then position the pattern piece with the edge on the fold. Once cut, it will give your a piece that is double the size. "Cut two on fold" means do this twice (or make two folds, pin through 4 layers of material, and cut through the lot). Where the pattern says "cut on bias" it means you need to align your pattern so that it sits at 45 degrees to the grain of the fabric. Cutting on the bias gives some "stretch" to material that wouldn't otherwise have any give.
    
6. Cut. Cut carefully around your pieces and through all layers of fabric.  Scissors are fine for this kind of simple job. The more layers of fabric you cut through at once, the less accurate the cuts will be. In a simple pattern like this, less than precise cutting isn't the end of the world.
    
7. Optional crown flap lining. Cut an additional crown flap from a contrasting or matching lining. You could also use the base material as well. I'm using Bemsilk lining here in dark red, as I had some left over from a previous project.
    



13. Finish edges

8. Sew the top to the sides. Pin the right sides of one crown piece and the top together. Sew from one marked dot on the pattern to the other (about 1cm in from the edge). Repeat with the other side.
    
9. Sew the sides together. Pin the sides together and sew, stopping at the dot again to make sure that you don't catch the top piece. If this works you will have 3 lines of sewing joining at a point and not crossing. Trim the corners to remove the bulk of the seams and to make the point neater when turned out.
    
10. Check fit. Turn the hat inside out and try it on in front of a mirror. Check it's not too tight or too loose around your head. Adjust the side seams in or out as required. Unpick any extra stitching.
     



16. Apply piping to crown flap

11. Create centre fold. Turn your hat inside out again. Iron the centre fold along the top or, if your fabric won't take an ironed crease, sew along the fold, very close to the edge from one point to the other, making sure not to cross the existing seams.
     
12. Press seams. Press the seam where the top joins the crown down towards the base of the hat. Press the seams at the sides open and flat.
     
13. Finish edges. Depending on your material, this may not be required. If the fabric doesn't fray you can skip this step. You can simply zigzag along the top seams where they are pressed together, and along both sides where they are pressed open. Coating with Fray Stop is also an option. I've chosen to bind the edges of my hat with the same bias binding used to make the piping. A final option would be to make a second cap in a thin, lining fabric and fit it inside the outer one, hiding all the rough seams.
     
14. Check size of crown flap. Wrap the crown flap around the hat, pinning as you go and try the hat on. Ensure you're happy with the amount of overlap, especially if you've adjusted the fit of the cap without making the flap longer*.
     



16. Use a sharp needle on bemsilk
to avoid puckering.

15. Make piping. If you can't buy pre-made piping, you can make your own. (See How To: Piping for full instructions along with more details of how to attach it.)
     
16. Apply piping to crown flap. Pin the piping along the outward facing (right) side of the fabric, along the curved edge so that the cord is to the inside. Sew tightly next to the cord using a zipper foot. Pin the lining on top of the piped crown flap, right sides together and sew again with the zipper foot, using your fingers to make sure the stitching is right next to the cord. Do this in one step if you're feeling confident.
     
17. Pin flap to crown. These instruction differ to those from Urban Don. Turn the cap right side out. Place the crown flap around the cap right side out, matching the back seam with the centre of the flap and pin, working out which way you want the flap to overlap**.  TRY IT ON AT THIS STAGE. Decide where you want the overlap to sit on your head, at the front or the side.
     
18. Baste flap to crown. Anchor pieces together by sewing 5mm from edge with a basting stitch. Then wrap the grossgrain tape around the outside crown flap 8mm above the bottom of the fabric, starting and finishing at the back so that the raw edges of the ribbon will be tucked inside the hat.
     



21. Top Stitch ribbon

19. Sew flap to crown. Sew around the outside, starting at the back, on the grossgrain tape, 2mm from the side closest to the cut edges. Turn the ribbon and raw edges to the inside (covering the raw edges) and check that the hat still fits.
     
20. Grade the seams. Grading the seams is where the bulk of a seam is removed so that it sits flat. Trim the raw edge of the flap down to 5mm, pulling the basting stitches out if required, leaving the cap raw edge alone. Fold the grossgrain tape back into the hat and press.
     
21. Topstich. Fold the flap down out of the way and topstich along the inside of the hat, just along the bottom edge of the ribbon. Repeat along the top edge. 
     
22. Stich-in-the-ditch. If your flap is not sitting close to the head, "stitch-in-the-ditch" between the piping and the fabric to secure the flap to the crown. Leave a gap to insert feathers or other decorations where the flap overlaps.
     



22. Stitch-in-the-ditch

23. Photos. Take photographs and admire!

Time/Cost

Cost
Wool fabric - 20cm at $20.00/m (approximately, and already owned. Cotton drill is more like $10/m)
Piping - 80cm at $5.00/3m (approximately, already owned/made).
Lining - 20cm at $10/m (approximately. This is optional and you only really need 7cm or so. However most shops have a 20cm minimum cut. Already owned.)
Grossgrain ribbon - 80cm at $7.00/5m (enough to go around your head plus overlap. Already owned).

Time
About 6 hours all up, because I made it fancy and the flap was too short and I had to work out what to do.  Just a basic cap might only be 30 minutes.
Another 2 hours to write the blog post and do the pictures. ^_^

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* As there was some stretch in my fabric and I reduced the seam allowance, the flap only just touched at the sides, rather than having any overlap at all.  To cover this, I made a triangle of fabric the same height as the flap, piped it, and used that to cover the join.
** Women's clothes in general the right side goes over the left, for men the left side goes over the right, if you're worried about such things.

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